
Sunday, July 20, 2008
Sunday afternoon......

Sunday, July 13, 2008
Ponderings

Somedays, such as last Thursday, I have started to think of the things I will miss when I get back to the States. I honestly cannot believe that my time here is almost up. However, I feel like I have been here for an eternity at times. One of the main things I will miss is the baguettes. I will miss everyone speaking French around me and my learning of the launguage continually growing. I will also truely miss the boabab trees that are truely magnificent not only in their beauty but in the coolness and shade they provide. In some ways I will miss the lack of stress here. If I'm in a mess or in a jam, there is not a whole lot I can do to get myself out of it. In a weird way that takes the pressure off. I will not miss the electricity or water cuts, however it creates an atmosphere once again of there not being a whole lot you can do. It forces you to learn to cook in candlelight, to read by candlelight, to play boardgames like you were kids as Bromwen and I did last Friday with Monopoly. We laughed as we remembered tournaments our families used to have that would go on for days and even weeks sometimes. Here there isn't the pressure as there is in NYC and at school to always be on top and pressure to succeed beyond measure. The sheer frustration of the mindset here where no one thinks beyond today tends to lend itself towards a whole lot less stress and anxiety. I can now see the immense appeal to this. Imagine a world where you never stressed about tomorrow. Unfortunately, for me this is not quite possible. I was able to get into the mindset for a bit when I didn't feel I was ever leaving here. However, now as I start to feel my time coming to an end, my identity of being American creeps back slowly but surely, starting to worry about finances, school, what will I do when I graduate in a year, etc, etc.
I slept in again today as it is Sunday and you dread the heat you will feel from the intense African sun. As I was drinking my Lipton, I turned to BBC World. They were showing a documentary called "Escape from Luanda". Watching this documentary was just what I needed. You see I have not left the house in two and a half days due to my illness. I was writing in my journal last night how I feel I have lost my passion, my inspiration. I have been on the journey since August of 2000 to make an impact, to help others, to serve. Here I do not feel I have been able to do this at all. Perhaps something I have learned while working here is that I desire and thrive more in a hands-on basis atmosphere. This documentary is about a music school in the capital of Angola. Angola is a country ravaged my war for many years. A woman in the community decided to start this school and has given hope and opportunity to many.
I find myself now at a point I feel I have never been at. I am almost 28 and halfway through my graduate school career. I am now not sure that I have chosen the right field, the right degree to get. You see, I have always been the person who knew what she wanted and went after it with nothing stopping her. Now, I am not sure what that is anymore.
Gabrielle
Tuesday, July 8, 2008
Things I am most thankful for today.
- aircon in the office
- the good doctor I saw yesterday
- clean water and running water
- the ground beef I had for dinner last night-protein! yay
- electricity
- friends
- Bromwen
- opportunities
Saturday, June 28, 2008
La Plage
Friday, June 27, 2008
Things you can buy from a taxi in Dakar....
Taxis in Dakar....

Taxis in Dakar a sense of wonder for me. Never in your wildest dreams would you think a car in this bad of condition could run! Seats with holes, only one door works, (the one on the right), gears that don't shift properly, ... ah yes-and the sense of amazment when you notice the key has fallen out but it is still running "just fine".
There also seems to be someone who comes around late at night with a hammer and bangs on the windows of the cabs so that each and every cab has a window that looks as if someone has failed to break in. Hmm.... the Dakar Taxi Hammer Man!!!
The taxi's are either a toyota corolla from 1982, or a lovely old and ancient french Peugot. Some of the Peugot's are actually stationwagons that are commonly referred to as a sept-plus. Needless to say, when my brother mentioned up hoping in to the back of one the these dark and scary sept-pluses for a 6 hour journey to St. Louis-call me high-maintenance but I politely declined. Ok-not so politely! The thought of being crammed in the back of one of these with about 9 other people, no aircon, tough roads, unbelievable smells-didn't even think twice! Oddly enough, this is the way many people do it here. We opted for the mini-bus and payed for it by waiting for 4 hours :(
Hailing a taxi in Dakar....quite perfectly put.
Hailing the cab...
Casually and nonchalantly stroll to the curb, distancing yourself from any people you may be with, so as to appear alone. Slowly and again, in no hurry, raise your arm, make eye contact with a cab driver, and make the "pppsssstttttt" noise.
Approaching the driver....
Approach the cab, as if in no hurry and not desperate to find one. Come to the passenger side window, or lean against the door to address the cabbie. Your goal is to bargain for a fair price for the ride, but first things first: small talk.
Small talk....
Shoot the breeze with the driver, most preferably in Wolof. Even if your Wolof is not strong, even being able to say “Hi, How are you?” in Wolof will give you much more credibility. Only stop shooting the breeze when the cabbie gets down to business.
Down to business...
“Fo Djem?” He wants to know where you’re headed. “Mangi dem chi marche bi.” You’re going to the market. He will state a price, in French francs, making the first bid. You are NEVER to start the bidding. You will hardly ever accept his first offer.
Declining an offer....
After considering his first offer, or at least pretending to, show your disapproval. Shock/surprise work if he proposes an abnormally high price (suspecting you're a tourist). Tell him you go there everyday and the price is never more than ______.
The counteroffer...
If the price is only a bit higher than the correct price, politely decline. You can now propose a price. Propose either the actual price you plan on paying, or even lower, so that if you make a compromise, the price agreed upon will be the right one.
First trick....
If he declines or makes a counter offer that is still not right, thank him kindly and start to walk away to allow him time to call you back. Usually he will, to accept your offer or continue bargaining.
Last ditch effort....
If he still will not accept any of your offers, tell him you only have a certain amount of money with you, but in this case make sure you do have this exact change, and that it is separate from any other money you are carrying.
Get in!!!
"Monte" means an agreed apon price, so get in. Sit in the front seat with him, for it is what locals do. I do not, however, recommend putting your seatbelt on, especailly if you're wearing white.
Get out, ride's over!
"Fii baax na.” (Here is good) Pay him, thank him, exit taxi. Tipping is ridiculous, especially after having spent so much effort bargaining for a cheaper price. Finally, say “Alhumdililah” to thank God for arriving in one piece. (After exiting taxi.)
The thing about Senegal is...

Thursday, June 26, 2008
Saint Louis

Wednesday, June 18, 2008
Desperately Seeking
Work is so incredibly strange. There is still practically nothing for me do to. However, my supervisor gave me some stats to invesigate for him and they do not even exist. Then I could not finish as I was leaving the office at 7pm and have been in bed ever since. So now I wonder if he thinks poorly of me. Honestly, not sure why I even care though. He does not communicate ANYTHING at all with me. It´s hard because I dont want to complain but why in the heck did they ask for an intern?!!!
I came to make a difference in people´s lives. I came to learn about UNAIDS. None of this is happening and it is so incredibly disappointing and frusterating.
Monday, June 16, 2008
The Storms
Wednesday, June 11, 2008
Sink or Swim
I titled this entry "Sink or Swim" because that is what it is here. My British colleague just dropped thos note of courtesy to me. "You either sink or swim here. No one tells you what to do." She is actually the second person to speak of this to me. My other colleague had been here for five months when he finally figured this out. There are subtle hints given to you, but almost never a direct response, invitation, or explanation. You can only imagine the frusteration.
My fellow colleague was absolutely in shock when she heard I got a computer after the first week I had been here. Her colleague has been waiting since last fall to get one. When she asked me how I got one I told her that I went to the tech guy's office at least three times each day. Well, I seem to be sinking at this point so it is time to attempt to start swimming.
She is Igbo (Nigerian) and finds Dakar very difficult. It's funny. I literally have not met one person here who likes living here. When I told her this she laughed and said that is why they are all so mean. Now this would be understandable for people who just think it is dirty and poverty stricken. The strange thing is that is not the things that bother you here. Those only add to the frusteration. It is so incredibly difficult to put one's finger on what it is here. She said that one of her friends here has been quite depressed. Indeed one of my friends has been too. She let me know that it is very common in Dakar for people to struggle with depression. This is quite a struggle for me as I also realize how much I have to be thankful for.
Dakar does not have street signs, zip codes, or addresses. When you take a taxi you must give them some reference point to go to and then you direct them from there. I have not met one single person who takes the bus. No one knows where they go! The only reason I can take one to work is because a friend of the family showed me the bus to take the first day I got here.
There is somewhat of a circle in Dakar that one must break into, socially speaking. This is even true for other Africans. One of my colleagues husbands who is from Uganda said that it took their family six months to make any kind of friends here. He said that it is strange in Dakar. The private sector does not get along with the public sector, the ngo's do not like the government organizations, etc. Hmm.....
Gabrielle
Monday, June 9, 2008
La plage....

My brother arrived on Friday night and I was so happy to see him. We picked him up from the airport and immediately took him to see some live music at a cafe around the corner from where I lived. This was also my first time hearing live music. Friday, June 6, 2008
C'est Vendredi!

Tuesday, June 3, 2008
A different way of life
So tonight I went to the store determined to get some protein in my diet. Alas, I found a can of lentils and some swiss cheese. I came home and decided to brave the way they cook here. It is a little can on the ground that you turn the gas on and light it. Somewhat like a gas stove but different indeed. So the electricity blew out just as I found the can opener. Ah! I cooked by candle light.
On the bus ride home I had tears in my eyes because of the immense poverty here. The thing is that there are all these people on the street that haggle you to buy, buy, buy. The taxis beep at you every two seconds because there is way more supply than demand. When you tell the people no thank you , etc. they are often quite nasty and rude and literally have no concept of the word no, no matter what language you say it in. When you get to take a breath sometimes it is hard because you realize that is their way of living. They just haggle people on the street for hours on end in the baking heat. Then you feel bad for being so aggravated. The wierd thing is that you would buy a heck of a lot more stuff if you could just look but there is no concept for that either.
On the bus today this woman offered me a seat next to her. I cannot tell you the joy that brought to my face. It was such a gift.
My favorite thing of each day is coming home to the little boy and girl that live at my house. They always make me smile no matter how bad my day is. I brought them a couple of movies and they just watch them over and over and over because there is not any children´s tv here. Tonight we watched Curious George in French-again! LOL I do not know what I will do when I am at my next place and they are not there. I am sure something else will come about however.
So mosquito season has started! It was nice and overcast today.
Gabrielle
My brother asked me for some books to read on the country. I started searching for some and realized there are some books that people have written on this. It is just really comforting to know I am not crazy for feeling the way I do. I came here to impact lives and I hope I get a chance. Maybe I will but in ways I will never see.
Thanks for reading and all your support! Here is to another day and a possibility of making a difference for someone-Inshallah
Gabrielle
Saturday, May 31, 2008
Futbol et la mer!
Thursday, May 29, 2008
Inshallah
Work is going quite well since yesterday. I got a computer yesterday and you can imagine how happy I was!!!!! So I am working on creating a report of the West and Central Africa regions Global Fund progress that will be presented at the regional meeting here in mid July. I have been able to talk a bit more to my colleagues here to get an idea of how things work here.
When people hear I am from NY they think that is quite cool. So it turns out my supervisor is quite an amazing person. He lived in Rwanda during the genocide, after the genocide and in Darfur during some of the war there. He told me about being lost for a month after running from the rebels and he ate mangoes and drank palm wine from the trees. Wow!
Well I will write more later as I must get back to work.
Gabrielle
Wednesday, May 28, 2008
Week two Dakar
I knew I had been to Africa before but nothing is like Dakar. The heat is already very intense and they say it is nothing compared to what it will be like. The mindset here is one that seems impossible to get your mind around-even for people who have lived here for years and years.
There are so many con-artists- and I mean professionals. I havent fallen prey yet but have heard from others. I am learning that many foreigners do not have a circle of friends here. The truth is that it is very hard to trust people. On the other hand I was happy when a local woman in her boubou (traditional African woman´s dress and hat) came up to me on my walk home and smiled. She said she sees me walking all the time. She wanted to say hello and welcome me I think because some of it was in Wolof. Anyway-it made me feel so nice.
Well-I will write more later as I just want to go sit under the fan.
Inshallah-
Gabrielle
Friday, May 23, 2008
Sticky!
Anyway- so today is holy day and each friday the peeps across the street have a sing along type thing. the men gather and sing along to a big huge loud machine that spurts out muslim chants like the ones from the mosques. However, it actually sounds really awesome. The men wear beautifully colored robes with matching hats and the women get all dressed up. Elles tres jolies! They are very pretty.
Tomorrow I will help with the little girl´s bday party of the fam I live with. Of course it will all be in French and Dutch mais cést la vie maintenent! THen we will go to the family restaurant for dinner. Sunday I am meeting a Columbia colleague to venture to the markets and city center together.
Today I sat in on the UNAIDS staff meeting so that was quite cool. Only thing is it was all in French so I did not get all of it. LOL
So I think I will go lie down and let some more sweat drip down my face as i try and fall asleep (yeah right).
Bonne Nuit!
Gabrielle
Thursday, May 22, 2008
Dakar
So I am trying not to be too hard on myself and realize I must give myself time to get used to it. Two words: HOT and DUST. Tomorrow is Friday which is the holy day and we only have to work half days on Fridays! YAY Then I will venture to the city center this weekend where the markets are. I will take the bus by myself tomorrow for the first time.
The women here really dress up and they even wear heels which I just don´t understand. It is impossible to wear makeup as it just melts off and to do your hair?! Yeah-the African women are smart when they wrap it up in a cloth let me tell you. I will learn this trade for sure.
The expense of life here is incredible. I learned that most get by because they just eat rice. The staple here for breakfast is nescafe (instant coffee) and a baguette. THey eat as much baguettes as the French! Unfortunately, it is not the same for wine and cheese :)
I am SO glad I am staying with a family. Im not sure how I would make it without them here. I am meeting up with a colleague from school on Sunday to explore. We haven´t met yet but were connected through the Columbia.
I am laughing as I keep hearing the sheep outside. Hmm...what else can I tell you? When I get down and feel like I can´t do this I think of the poverty these people live in and how I get to go back in three months to the greatest city in the world. I just think about how blessed I am and how amazing this experience will turn out to be even though it is truly a rough one.
Well I guess that is all for now. Thanks for reading and...
Salaam Alekum (Peace be with you.)
Gabrielle
Saturday, May 10, 2008

Wednesday, May 7, 2008
Tuesday, May 6, 2008
Dakar OutLook
Sunday, May 4, 2008
Beginning
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